Skip to product information

AP1 CONVERSION COATING

AP1 CONVERSION COATING

Regular price $98.00
Regular price $98.00 Sale price $182.00
SAVE 46% Sold out
Clean. Prep. Convert. All in One Step.

The fastest way to prepare blasted metal for paint, powder coat, or finishing.

AP1 Conversion Coating simplifies metal preparation by combining cleaning and surface conversion in a single step. Instead of running multiple chemicals and prep stages, AP1 removes contaminants while leaving behind a microscopic conversion layer that improves coating adhesion and corrosion resistance.

That means better results with less time, fewer products, and a more reliable surface before finishing.


Why Metal Prep Matters

Blasting removes rust, scale, and coatings — but it also leaves bare metal vulnerable.

Without proper preparation:

* coatings may fail
* paint adhesion can suffer
* corrosion can return quickly

AP1 solves this by cleaning and chemically preparing the surface at the same time, creating the ideal foundation for finishing.


One Product. Multiple Jobs.

AP1 works across a wide range of metals used in restoration, fabrication, and coating shops.

Compatible with:

✔ Steel / ferrous metals
✔ Aluminum
✔ Zinc-coated materials
✔ Stainless alloys

This makes AP1 an ideal solution for shops or builders working across different substrates without needing multiple prep chemicals.


What AP1 Actually Does

1. Cleans the Surface

Removes oils, residue, and contaminants left after blasting or handling.

2. Converts the Metal

Creates a conversion layer that promotes stronger adhesion.

3. Prepares for Finishing

Provides an ideal base for primer, paint, or powder coating.

The result is better coating performance and longer-lasting finishes.


Built for Real Metal Work

AP1 is designed for professionals and serious builders who need consistent results across different types of projects.

Perfect for:

* Automotive restoration
* Trailer and equipment repair
* Fabrication shops
* Powder coating operations
* Industrial maintenance
* DIY metal restoration

Whether you’re restoring frames, prepping panels, or coating fabricated parts, AP1 simplifies the process.


Why Shops Choose Conversion Coatings

Compared to simple cleaners or degreasers, conversion coatings provide additional benefits:

✔ Improved coating adhesion
✔ Better corrosion resistance
✔ More consistent coating results
✔ Reduced prep steps

This means fewer failures and better durability for the finished part.


Fits Perfectly Into the SandblastKit Workflow

Sandblasting is the first step.

Proper metal preparation is the next.

Workflow:
1. Blast rust and coatings
2. Rinse and dry the surface
3. Apply AP1 Conversion Coating
4. Prime or powder coat

This ensures your finish starts on the best possible foundation.


Key Benefits

✔ Cleans and conversion-coats in one step
✔ Improves adhesion for paint and powder coat
✔ Supports better corrosion resistance
✔ Compatible with multiple metal types
✔ Reduces prep time and simplifies workflow


Perfect For

* Restoration professionals
* Fabricators
* Powder coat shops
* Metal finishing operations
* Serious DIY builders

Anyone who wants faster prep and better finish performance.


Finish Stronger. Last Longer.

Blasting removes the rust.

AP1 prepares the metal.

Your coating finishes the job.

Add AP1 Conversion Coating to your workflow and start every finish on the right foundation.
AP1 CONVERSION COATING

AP1 CONVERSION COATING

Regular price $98.00
Regular price $98.00 Sale price $182.00
SAVE 46% Sold out
View full details
Support

Frequently Asked Questions

Everything you need to know about SandBlastKit. Can't find your answer? Contact us directly.

FAQ section image
What does SandBlastKit actually do, is it a real water sandblaster or just an attachment?

SandBlastKit converts your existing pressure washer into a wet sandblaster. It attaches directly to your wand and uses suction to draw sand from a bucket, mixing it into the water stream so you can blast away rust, paint, and heavy coatings from metal, wood, and concrete. Most standard pressure washers (1,500–4,000 PSI) are compatible.

No special equipment required

Which bundle do I need for my project?

It depends on the job. The Starter Kit is perfect for small projects and first-time users. The Do It Right Bundle (our most popular) adds PRO Nozzles, a Face Mask, Sand Sifter, and Rust Inhibitor — covering everything for a complete job. For heavy-duty work like full truck frames, trailers, or farm equipment, the Pro Bundle includes a high-pressure gun and cleanup accessories built for repeated, large-scale use. Not sure? Contact us and we'll point you in the right direction.

How do I set up my DIY pressure washer sandblaster correctly to avoid clogging?

Setup order matters: always pull the trigger and get water flowing before placing the suction head into the sand, and when stopping, lift the suction head out first, then release the trigger. Keep the sand hose as upright as possible (around the 12 o'clock position) and raise your sand bucket about 3 feet off the ground for better suction. Using dry, filtered sand is essential, even one damp clump can block the system. This is the single most overlooked step in any pressure washer sandblaster DIY setup.

What type of sand or blasting media should I use?

Use dry, coarse-grade blasting sand — avoid play sand or beach sand as they are too fine, too smooth, or too damp and will clog the system. Different jobs call for different media: coarser grits remove heavy rust and thick coatings, while finer grits are better for lighter prep work or softer surfaces like wood. Always run your sand through the Sand Filter/Sifter before each session to remove rocks, moisture, and debris.

How do I prevent rust from coming back right after blasting?

After blasting, bare metal oxidises fast — sometimes within hours. The fix is simple: add Rust Inhibitor to your water feed line (1 oz per gallon). This protects the surface for up to 72 hours, giving you plenty of time to apply primer or paint. If you're not coating right away, wipe the surface dry, blow air into all seams and joints, and store in a dry environment. The Mini Cordless Turbo Jet Blower is great for clearing moisture from tight spots like bolts and frames.

Can I reuse my blasting sand to save money?

Yes — with the right setup you can recover and reuse 70–80% of your sand. Place the Sandblast Catch Net under your work area to collect spent media. After blasting, rake it out, let it dry in the sun, then run it through the Sand Filter/Sifter again before the next session. Store reclaimed sand in a sealed metal container away from moisture to keep it dry and ready to use.

My blasting feels weak or the sand keeps clogging, what should I do?

The two most common causes are wet sand and incorrect hose angle. Check that your sand is completely dry (sift it first), keep the suction hose upright, and make sure the bucket is raised off the ground. If suction is still poor, adjust the black knob on your washer's pump to regulate flow. For stubborn rust or thicker coatings, upgrading to the High-Pressure Washer Gun significantly boosts PSI and gives you interchangeable tips for more targeted control.

Customer Insights

What 100+ real buyers told us

We analyzed every Facebook review so you know exactly what to expect -- and what questions to ask before you buy.

100+ Reviews Analyzed
11 Insight Categories
70% Show Buying Intent
Top Buying Barriers Answered

What PSI and GPM does my pressure washer need?

Minimum 3000 PSI and 2.5 GPM. Pe Jay Evans runs it at 3100 PSI with Black Diamond media from Tractor Supply. Cecelia M. confirmed it works at 2700 PSI. Electric washers at 2500 PSI are borderline -- results vary.

Won't it cause flash rust immediately after blasting?

Flash rust starts within minutes on bare wet metal -- this is the #1 concern. Fix: apply Ospho or a phosphoric rust inhibitor within 1 hour, or prime the same session. Scott White blasted his 1970 truck frame and primed it the same day.

Does it work with an air compressor or only a pressure washer?

It connects to a pressure washer, not an air compressor. The water flow creates suction that pulls media into the stream -- no air tank needed. Alain Levy added a small pressure feed pot to force media in and eliminated clogging entirely.

Is this company legit? I have not received my order.

One customer publicly retracted a scam accusation after support resolved a shipping error, writing the product is as real as it gets and the team was genuine and humble. If your order has not arrived, contact support directly via the chat on the product page -- not the contact-us email.

Does it work on car frames and body panels without warping?

Yes -- the water actually cools the metal and reduces warp risk compared to dry blasting. Robert Milush: the water keeps metal cool, reducing warping. Multiple customers have done full vehicle frames including a 1969 Chevelle and a 1970 truck.

How do I return an item or reach customer support?

Use the live chat on the product page rather than the contact-us email form, which has had reported issues. For returns, message support directly with your order number and they will send the return address.

What media should I use and does sand clog it?

Use dry, sifted media. Black Diamond coal slag, garnet, and play sand sifted through a window screen all work. Wet or unsifted sand clogs the nozzle. Robert Milush uses Northern Tools media with a 3000 PSI sprayer with no issues.

My media keeps clogging -- how do I fix it?

Three causes: wet media, unsifted grit, or the intake hose not pointing straight up. Sift sand through a window screen, keep it bone dry, and position the sand hose vertically. Scott Stewart switched to a larger-diameter feed line and it ran smooth the whole session.

How much media does it go through? Is it expensive to run?

A 40 lb bag from Home Depot runs under $10 and covers a full vehicle frame session for most users. Scott White spent under $300 total -- pressure washer, kit, and 40 lb bag of media. Collect spent media on a tarp and reuse it.

How messy is it and can I use it indoors?

Messier than dry blasting -- wet media spreads. Use it outdoors or in an open bay. Lay a tarp under the workpiece to collect and reuse media. Tommy Greene did a 1964 F350 rim in 7 minutes and described cleanup as straightforward.

Do I need a respirator?

Yes if you are using silica sand -- that is a serious health hazard. Switch to garnet, coal slag, or aluminum oxide and you significantly reduce dust exposure. The wet process also suppresses airborne particles compared to dry blasting.

The friction is technical clarity -- not trust.

60-70% of comments show real buying intent. They just need one clear answer before they pull the trigger.

See Compatibility Guide
30-Day GuaranteeNot happy? Full refund, no questions asked.
Free ShippingOn all orders, dispatched fast.
Secure CheckoutEncrypted payments, always.
Ships FastIn and out of the warehouse quickly.