Your pressure washer + SBK = wet sandblaster

Water carries the media. No dust cloud, no compressor, no warped panels.

Four parts. Zero guesswork.

Tap a dot to see what each part of the Carbide 600 + Inductor Tank rig does.

Four parts. Zero guesswork.

Part 1

Pressure washer connection

Threads onto the pressure washer you already own. No compressor, no extra power.

Part 2

Inductor tank · 250 lb

Holds up to 250 lb of dry media. Fill once and blast until the job is done.

Part 3

Carbide nozzle · 600 hr

Carbide 600 nozzle rated for around 600 hours of blasting before it needs replacing.

Part 4

Media line + control valve

Dial the media flow up or down. Dry media feeds evenly, so the line doesn't clog.

  1. Threads onto the pressure washer you already own. No compressor, no extra power.

  2. Holds up to 250 lb of dry media. Fill once and blast until the job is done.

  3. Carbide 600 nozzle rated for around 600 hours of blasting before it needs replacing.

  4. Dial the media flow up or down. Dry media feeds evenly, so the line doesn't clog.

Three steps to bare metal

No compressor. No dust cloud. Just the pressure washer you already own.

  1. SBK step 1

    Connect

    Screw the nozzle onto your pressure washer wand and drop the feed line in dry, sifted media.

  2. SBK step 2

    Water on, then media

    Start the water first, then open the media. Blast. Media off first, water off last.

  3. SBK step 3

    Protect the steel

    Bare metal flash-rusts in hours. Rust Inhibitor in the water, then AP1 coating.

SBK media text image

Load 250 lb. Blast until the job's done.

The inductor tank feeds media steadily straight into the Carbide 600 nozzle. No sputtering, no clogs, no shaking a bucket every five minutes.

  • Up to 250 lb of media per fill
  • Steady gravity feed: no clogs, no sputtering
  • Carbide 600 nozzle built for full shells

Watch it strip steel

Carbide 600 and the inductor tank, running on everyday pressure washers.

Carbide 600
Rust → bare metal

Caprice frame rail · 0:13

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Asked on every call. Answered here.

Straight answers to what everyone wants to know before their first blast.

Question 01

Which pressure washer do I need?

The one you already have, gas or electric. Flow (GPM) matters as much as pressure: a washer with good flow often blasts better than a higher-PSI one with weak flow.

  • Sweet spot: 2,500–3,000 PSI for regular blasting, 3,000+ PSI with good GPM for heavy rust.
  • Ceramic Series: built for washers up to about 5,000 PSI.
  • Carbide 600: tungsten carbide nozzle rated to 600 bar, for the biggest machines and longest jobs.

Question 02

Which media should I use?

Dry, coarse media only.

  • Black Diamonds: aggressive and fast. Heavy rust, thick paint, frames, trailers.
  • Crushed Glass: more control and a smoother finish. Lighter rust and panels.

Never use play sand. It's too fine, holds moisture and is the fastest way to clog the line.

Question 03

How long does the nozzle last?

Ceramic nozzles are wear parts. How long they last depends on your media and pressure, which is why the Ceramic Series ships with 2 spares. The Carbide 600 nozzle is solid tungsten carbide and lasts many times longer, so it's the one for full shells, frames and repeat jobs.

Signs it's time for a new nozzle: the pattern gets wider, cutting slows down and you burn through more media.

Question 04

What aftercare do I need? (Rust inhibitor)

Bare metal flash-rusts within hours once it's wet. Two steps stop it:

  1. Add Rust Inhibitor to your blast water at 1 oz per gallon, so the surface stays clean while you work.
  2. Once it's dry, apply AP1 Conversion Coating to lock the metal down before primer.

Question 05

How do I avoid clogs?

  • Starting: water on first, then open the media.
  • Stopping: media off first, then water off.
  • Use dry, sifted media. Damp clumps and pebbles cause almost every clog.

The gravity-fed bag and tank systems feed media steadily, so they don't clog the way a suction bucket can.

01Which pressure washer do I need?

The one you already have, gas or electric. Flow (GPM) matters as much as pressure: a washer with good flow often blasts better than a higher-PSI one with weak flow.

  • Sweet spot: 2,500–3,000 PSI for regular blasting, 3,000+ PSI with good GPM for heavy rust.
  • Ceramic Series: built for washers up to about 5,000 PSI.
  • Carbide 600: tungsten carbide nozzle rated to 600 bar, for the biggest machines and longest jobs.
02Which media should I use?

Dry, coarse media only.

  • Black Diamonds: aggressive and fast. Heavy rust, thick paint, frames, trailers.
  • Crushed Glass: more control and a smoother finish. Lighter rust and panels.

Never use play sand. It's too fine, holds moisture and is the fastest way to clog the line.

03How long does the nozzle last?

Ceramic nozzles are wear parts. How long they last depends on your media and pressure, which is why the Ceramic Series ships with 2 spares. The Carbide 600 nozzle is solid tungsten carbide and lasts many times longer, so it's the one for full shells, frames and repeat jobs.

Signs it's time for a new nozzle: the pattern gets wider, cutting slows down and you burn through more media.

04What aftercare do I need? (Rust inhibitor)

Bare metal flash-rusts within hours once it's wet. Two steps stop it:

  1. Add Rust Inhibitor to your blast water at 1 oz per gallon, so the surface stays clean while you work.
  2. Once it's dry, apply AP1 Conversion Coating to lock the metal down before primer.
05How do I avoid clogs?
  • Starting: water on first, then open the media.
  • Stopping: media off first, then water off.
  • Use dry, sifted media. Damp clumps and pebbles cause almost every clog.

The gravity-fed bag and tank systems feed media steadily, so they don't clog the way a suction bucket can.

Not sure which setup? Call us.

Tell us your pressure washer and your project. We'll tell you exactly which setup and media to get, and what you don't need.

Lines openMon–Fri · 9am–6pm EST

Questions? Call us

(819) 410-4210 Compare the systems