Asked on every call. Answered here.

Straight answers to what everyone wants to know before their first blast.

Question 01

Which pressure washer do I need?

The one you already have, gas or electric. Flow (GPM) matters as much as pressure: a washer with good flow often blasts better than a higher-PSI one with weak flow.

  • Sweet spot: 2,500–3,000 PSI for regular blasting, 3,000+ PSI with good GPM for heavy rust.
  • Ceramic Series: built for washers up to about 5,000 PSI.
  • Carbide 600: tungsten carbide nozzle rated to 600 bar, for the biggest machines and longest jobs.

Question 02

Which media should I use?

Dry, coarse media only.

  • Black Diamonds: aggressive and fast. Heavy rust, thick paint, frames, trailers.
  • Crushed Glass: more control and a smoother finish. Lighter rust and panels.

Never use play sand. It's too fine, holds moisture and is the fastest way to clog the line.

Question 03

How long does the nozzle last?

Ceramic nozzles are wear parts. How long they last depends on your media and pressure, which is why the Ceramic Series ships with 2 spares. The Carbide 600 nozzle is solid tungsten carbide and lasts many times longer, so it's the one for full shells, frames and repeat jobs.

Signs it's time for a new nozzle: the pattern gets wider, cutting slows down and you burn through more media.

Question 04

What aftercare do I need? (Rust inhibitor)

Bare metal flash-rusts within hours once it's wet. Two steps stop it:

  1. Add Rust Inhibitor to your blast water at 1 oz per gallon, so the surface stays clean while you work.
  2. Once it's dry, apply AP1 Conversion Coating to lock the metal down before primer.

Question 05

How do I avoid clogs?

  • Starting: water on first, then open the media.
  • Stopping: media off first, then water off.
  • Use dry, sifted media. Damp clumps and pebbles cause almost every clog.

The gravity-fed bag and tank systems feed media steadily, so they don't clog the way a suction bucket can.

Question 06

What does SandBlastKit actually do?

It turns the pressure washer you already own into a wet sandblaster. The kit fits your wand and pulls dry media into the water stream, so you can strip rust, paint and coatings from metal, wood and concrete. No air compressor, no blast cabinet.

Question 07

Which setup is right for my project?

  • Ceramic Series: parts, wheels, brackets and panels. The lowest-cost way in.
  • Bag Rig: frames, trailers and mid-size jobs. Gravity feed, no shaking a bucket.
  • Tank Rig: whole shells and big jobs. Up to 250 lb of media per fill.

Not sure? Take the 3-tap quiz or call us.

Question 08

Does it work with an air compressor?

No compressor needed. It runs on your pressure washer: the water flow pulls the media into the stream. Our air-assist models add a small air line only to keep the media moving.

Question 09

How much media does a job use? Is it expensive to run?

A 40 lb bag covers a full frame session for most people. Our 1972 BMW 2002 shell took 15 bags. Catch spent media on a tarp or catch net, dry it and sift it, and you can reuse most of it.

Question 10

Can I reuse my blasting media?

Yes, often 70–80% of it. Lay the catch net under the work, rake the media out, let it dry in the sun and run it through the sifter before the next session.

Question 11

Won't bare steel flash rust right after blasting?

Wet-blasted steel starts to rust within hours. Add rust inhibitor to the water (1 oz per gallon) to protect it for up to 72 hours, then wipe down and prime. Or prime the same day.

Question 12

Does it warp car panels or frames?

No. The water keeps the metal cool, so there is far less warping risk than with dry blasting. Customers have done full frames and shells, from a 1969 Chevelle to a 1970 truck.

Question 13

How messy is it? Can I use it indoors?

Wet blasting has almost no dust but the media spreads. Work outdoors or in an open bay, and lay a tarp or catch net under the part so you can collect and reuse the media.

Question 14

Do I need safety gear?

Yes: eye and face protection, gloves and a respirator, especially with any silica-containing media. Use Black Diamond, crushed glass or garnet rather than silica sand. Our Protection Kit covers all of it.

Question 15

My blast feels weak. What should I check?

  • Media is completely dry and sifted.
  • Feed hose runs as upright as possible, no kinks.
  • The metering valve is open enough: open it a quarter turn at a time.
  • Your washer has good flow (GPM), not just high PSI.

Question 16

How long does shipping take?

Orders ship fast from the US with tracking. You will get the tracking link by email as soon as it leaves; use Track your order in the footer any time.

Question 17

How do returns work?

Every kit has a 30-day money-back guarantee. Contact us with your order number and we will send the return details.

01Which pressure washer do I need?

The one you already have, gas or electric. Flow (GPM) matters as much as pressure: a washer with good flow often blasts better than a higher-PSI one with weak flow.

  • Sweet spot: 2,500–3,000 PSI for regular blasting, 3,000+ PSI with good GPM for heavy rust.
  • Ceramic Series: built for washers up to about 5,000 PSI.
  • Carbide 600: tungsten carbide nozzle rated to 600 bar, for the biggest machines and longest jobs.
02Which media should I use?

Dry, coarse media only.

  • Black Diamonds: aggressive and fast. Heavy rust, thick paint, frames, trailers.
  • Crushed Glass: more control and a smoother finish. Lighter rust and panels.

Never use play sand. It's too fine, holds moisture and is the fastest way to clog the line.

03How long does the nozzle last?

Ceramic nozzles are wear parts. How long they last depends on your media and pressure, which is why the Ceramic Series ships with 2 spares. The Carbide 600 nozzle is solid tungsten carbide and lasts many times longer, so it's the one for full shells, frames and repeat jobs.

Signs it's time for a new nozzle: the pattern gets wider, cutting slows down and you burn through more media.

04What aftercare do I need? (Rust inhibitor)

Bare metal flash-rusts within hours once it's wet. Two steps stop it:

  1. Add Rust Inhibitor to your blast water at 1 oz per gallon, so the surface stays clean while you work.
  2. Once it's dry, apply AP1 Conversion Coating to lock the metal down before primer.
05How do I avoid clogs?
  • Starting: water on first, then open the media.
  • Stopping: media off first, then water off.
  • Use dry, sifted media. Damp clumps and pebbles cause almost every clog.

The gravity-fed bag and tank systems feed media steadily, so they don't clog the way a suction bucket can.

06What does SandBlastKit actually do?

It turns the pressure washer you already own into a wet sandblaster. The kit fits your wand and pulls dry media into the water stream, so you can strip rust, paint and coatings from metal, wood and concrete. No air compressor, no blast cabinet.

07Which setup is right for my project?
  • Ceramic Series: parts, wheels, brackets and panels. The lowest-cost way in.
  • Bag Rig: frames, trailers and mid-size jobs. Gravity feed, no shaking a bucket.
  • Tank Rig: whole shells and big jobs. Up to 250 lb of media per fill.

Not sure? Take the 3-tap quiz or call us.

08Does it work with an air compressor?

No compressor needed. It runs on your pressure washer: the water flow pulls the media into the stream. Our air-assist models add a small air line only to keep the media moving.

09How much media does a job use? Is it expensive to run?

A 40 lb bag covers a full frame session for most people. Our 1972 BMW 2002 shell took 15 bags. Catch spent media on a tarp or catch net, dry it and sift it, and you can reuse most of it.

10Can I reuse my blasting media?

Yes, often 70–80% of it. Lay the catch net under the work, rake the media out, let it dry in the sun and run it through the sifter before the next session.

11Won't bare steel flash rust right after blasting?

Wet-blasted steel starts to rust within hours. Add rust inhibitor to the water (1 oz per gallon) to protect it for up to 72 hours, then wipe down and prime. Or prime the same day.

12Does it warp car panels or frames?

No. The water keeps the metal cool, so there is far less warping risk than with dry blasting. Customers have done full frames and shells, from a 1969 Chevelle to a 1970 truck.

13How messy is it? Can I use it indoors?

Wet blasting has almost no dust but the media spreads. Work outdoors or in an open bay, and lay a tarp or catch net under the part so you can collect and reuse the media.

14Do I need safety gear?

Yes: eye and face protection, gloves and a respirator, especially with any silica-containing media. Use Black Diamond, crushed glass or garnet rather than silica sand. Our Protection Kit covers all of it.

15My blast feels weak. What should I check?
  • Media is completely dry and sifted.
  • Feed hose runs as upright as possible, no kinks.
  • The metering valve is open enough: open it a quarter turn at a time.
  • Your washer has good flow (GPM), not just high PSI.
16How long does shipping take?

Orders ship fast from the US with tracking. You will get the tracking link by email as soon as it leaves; use Track your order in the footer any time.

17How do returns work?

Every kit has a 30-day money-back guarantee. Contact us with your order number and we will send the return details.

Not sure which setup? Call us.

Tell us your pressure washer and your project. We'll tell you exactly which setup and media to get, and what you don't need.

Lines openMon–Fri · 9am–6pm EST

Questions? Call us

(819) 410-4210 Compare the systems