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Ceramic Pro — Inductor Tank System

Ceramic Pro — Inductor Tank System

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Load 250 lbs. Blast Until the Job’s Done.

The complete, high-capacity gravity-fed sandblasting system — a rigid full-drain cone tank on a purpose-built stand, paired with the versatile Ceramic Series for full frames, full shells, restoration work, and the jobs you get paid for.

If you’re pricing out a pressure pot just to get more run time out of your rig — stop.

The Inductor Tank + Stand runs the same patent-pending metering sleeve valve and air assist system that made the gravity-fed delivery system work, scaled up and built solid. A rigid roto-molded cone tank sitting on a dedicated steel stand, holding up to 250 lbs of media in a single fill.

The included Ceramic Series completes the system, turning the pressure washer you already own into a controlled wet-sandblasting setup for removing rust, paint, varnish, and corrosion from metal, concrete, brick, wood, vehicles, trailers, frames, and equipment.

Pour it in. Dial it in. Work.

Ceramic Series included · Up to 250 lbs per fill · Rigid full-drain cone · Dedicated heavy-duty stand · Sealed vented lid · Works with 1,500–5,000 PSI pressure washers · No compressor required · Engineered in the USA

WHY THE TANK

✓ Up to 250 lbs in one fill. Fifteen gallons of dry media, depending on what you’re running. That’s a full side of a car, or a complete frame, without walking back to the shop. On the BMW 2002 shell, the whole job ran fifteen 90 lb bags — this is how you feed a job that size without your day turning into refills.

✓ Rigid. Nothing flexes, nothing sags, nothing shifts. Roto-molded polyethylene, one solid piece, no seams to split. Load it to the top and the geometry doesn’t change — the tank holds its shape and the valve holds its position from the first pound to the last. Set your flow once and it stays where you set it.

✓ Full-drain 54° cone — it actually empties. This is the same cone design farms use to mix and dump chemical in the field, engineered so nothing settles in a corner and nothing bridges. Media keeps falling straight down into the metering sleeve valve until the tank is genuinely empty. You blast what you paid for instead of leaving a wedge of it stuck in the bottom.

✓ Solid on the ground. The tank drops into a dedicated stand built 4” taller than standard specifically to clear the full-drain cone — so the valve sits at working height and the media hose runs straight out with nothing in its way. A 20” × 20” footprint and a loaded tank sitting low and centered. Shop floor, gravel, dirt, grass. Set it down and it stays put.

✓ Built for the long haul. Polyethylene doesn’t rust, doesn’t rot, and doesn’t care about weather. UV-inhibited for life outdoors. This is equipment built to sit in a yard, get loaded and unloaded a hundred times, and still be the same tank in five years.

✓ Sealed vented lid — 12” threaded. Load it and leave it. Rain, dust, and shop debris stay out, and your media stays dry. Wet media is the number one cause of a slow feed, and a sealed lid is how you never deal with it.

✓ See your level without stopping. Translucent tank with gallon markings molded in. Glance over mid-job and know exactly what you’ve got left, so you top off on your terms instead of finding out at the worst possible moment.

✓ Doesn’t clog. Media falls straight down through the patent-pending metering sleeve valve into the air assist system. No pickup tube to jam. Nothing to shake.

✓ Make it part of the rig. Bolt it to a trailer, a cart, or a shop corner and it becomes a permanent blasting station — a fixed piece of your setup instead of something you assemble at the start of every job.

✓ Ceramic Series included. The system comes with the Ceramic Series for controlled, versatile wet blasting across metal, concrete, brick, wood, vehicles, trailers, frames, and equipment. The nozzle system remains interchangeable, so you can upgrade to the Carbide 600 when the job calls for it.

WHY THE CERAMIC SERIES

✓ Built for the whole job list. Remove rust, paint, varnish, and corrosion from trailers, cars, trucks, frames, tractors, farm equipment, auto parts, boats, concrete, brick, and wood.

✓ Works with the pressure washer you already own. Compatible with electric and gas pressure washers from 1,500–5,000 PSI, covering lighter cleaning through tougher rust and paint removal.

✓ Control the pressure for the surface. Run higher pressure for heavy rust on steel and equipment, or reduce it for paint, wood, brick, concrete, and more delicate surfaces.

✓ No compressor or blasting cabinet needed. Water force from your pressure washer carries the abrasive media to the surface, giving you a practical wet-blasting setup without the cost and footprint of industrial equipment.

✓ Easy to control and adjust. The tank meters the media, the air assist keeps it moving, and the Ceramic Series gives you a steady, repeatable blast at the surface.

✓ Match the media to the job. Use coarse media such as Black Diamond or glass beads for rust and paint. Use softer media such as soda or walnut shell for wood and more delicate surfaces.

✓ Replaceable nozzle system. Ceramic nozzles are wear items. When a nozzle reaches the end of its service life, swap it and keep working instead of replacing the complete system.

THE MECHANISM

Your pressure washer does the work. No compressor, no pressure pot, no cabinet, no dust containment plan.

The patent-pending metering sleeve valve sits at the bottom of the cone. Quarter turn to open — it locks in and holds. Below it, the air assist system mixes air into the media before it ever reaches the Ceramic Series. That’s why the stream comes out continuous instead of surging.

Feeds abrasive media downward naturally — like an hourglass — so your washer only needs a little pull to maintain a perfect, steady feed.

No sputtering, no clogs, no shaking a bucket.

6-hour job. 5 minutes of downtime.

Full 1972 BMW 2002 shell — roof to rockers, heavy Bondo on a door and two quarter panels. Total downtime across the entire day was five minutes, and that was one fitting change. No clogs. No flow interruptions.

BUILT FOR BIG JOBS

  • Full car shells and full frames — measured in hours, not minutes
  • Farm and heavy equipment — implements, decks, loaders, gates, tanks
  • Trailers, tube frames, dune buggies, truck beds
  • Anyone blasting for money — uninterrupted run time is margin
  • Shop rigs and trailer builds — a permanent station, not a setup you rebuild every time
  • Concrete, graffiti, large metal panels, marine work
  • Brick, wood, furniture, fences, patios, and restoration projects

PRESSURE GUIDE FOR DIFFERENT JOBS

Removing rust 3,000–5,000 PSI Tough rust on tractors, farm equipment, frames, and vehicles
Stripping paint 2,500–4,000 PSI Cars, trailers, boats, panels, and other painted surfaces
Dirt, grime, and mold 1,500–2,500 PSI Brick, concrete, patios, and wood
Varnish removal 2,000–3,500 PSI Wooden surfaces and furniture

DIALING IT IN — WHAT “RIGHT” LOOKS LIKE

Have a test spot ready. Scrap panel, or just the concrete.

Watch the media hose. If you’ve ever seen sand run through the narrow point of an hourglass — smooth, continuous, no surging — that’s what you want to see. On a sunny day you can see it right through the line.

At the Ceramic Series, the stream should still look like water, with the media carried inside it. Judge the rest by feel: the ricochet coming back should be a light ping of fine grains, barely felt.

Too much media and it bounces back like mini ping-pong balls. Not enough and you’re just spraying water. Sit just under “too much.”

Hose moving like a worm? Flow surging? Too much sand, not enough air. Back the meter off one full turn.

Dial to what you’re removing. Light paint needs far less media than heavy Bondo. Don’t waste sand.

RUN IT LIKE A PRO

Startup: Water first, always. Trigger pulled and water flowing before the valve opens.

Shutdown: Close the meter first, let the hose evacuate, then stop. Reopen the meter to restart.

Two seconds of discipline. It’s what keeps the next pull clean instead of clogged.

HOW IT RUNS

  1. Set the stand on level ground and drop the tank in.
  2. Pour your dry media straight in through the 12” opening — no funnel, dump it from the bag.
  3. Connect the Ceramic Series nozzle assembly to your compatible pressure-washer gun or wand.
  4. Connect the reinforced media hose to the Ceramic Series nozzle assembly.
  5. Open the air inlet so the media feeds smoothly.
  6. Trigger and water first.
  7. Quarter turn on the sleeve valve — dial it in on your test spot.
  8. Blast until the job’s done.

WHAT MEDIA SHOULD I USE?

Black Diamond / Coal slag Heavy rust, paint, and demanding steel surfaces
Crushed glass / Glass beads Rust, paint, corrosion, and general surface preparation
Garnet Steel, vehicles, frames, and restoration work
Soda Lighter cleaning and more delicate surfaces
Walnut shell Wood and delicate restoration work

Always keep your media dry. Wet or clumped media is the most common cause of poor feeding. Sift reclaimed media through a stainless screen before putting it back in the tank.

SPECS

System Inductor Tank + Dedicated Stand + Ceramic Series
Capacity 15 gallons — up to 250 lbs of media, depending on media type
Tank Roto-molded polyethylene, one-piece, translucent with gallon markings
Cone 54° full-drain
Tank dimensions 19” dia. × 27” H
Stand dimensions 20” × 20” × 33” H
Stand height 4” taller than standard, for full-drain cone clearance
Lid 12” threaded vented lid
Metering Patent-pending metering sleeve valve
Air Air assist system
Nozzle system Ceramic Series included
Pressure-washer range 1,500–5,000 PSI
Pressure washer Electric and gas
Surface compatibility Metal, concrete, brick, wood, vehicles, trailers, frames, boats, and equipment
Compressor required None
Media Crushed glass, glass beads, garnet, coal slag, soda, walnut shell, and other suitable dry blasting media
Outdoor rating UV-inhibited
Engineering Designed and engineered in the USA

WHAT’S IN THE BOX

  • 1× 15-Gallon Full-Drain Inductor Tank
  • 1× Dedicated Tank Stand
  • 1× Ceramic Series Wet-Sandblasting Nozzle Assembly
  • 1× Ceramic Nozzle Set
  • 1× Pressure-Washer Connection Adapter
  • 1× Patent-Pending Metering Sleeve Valve Assembly
  • 1× Air Assist Inlet Section
  • 1× Reinforced Media Hose
  • 1× Step-by-Step Setup Guide

FAQ

How much media does it hold?
Fifteen gallons — up to 250 lbs depending on what you’re running. Denser media weighs more per gallon.

Does it include the Ceramic Series?
Yes. This is the complete Inductor Tank + Stand + Ceramic Series system. The Ceramic Series nozzle assembly, ceramic nozzles, and pressure-washer connection adapter are included.

Will it work with my pressure washer?
The Ceramic Series works with compatible electric or gas pressure washers from 1,500–5,000 PSI. Match the pressure to the surface and the job, and contact support with your machine’s PSI and GPM if you’re unsure.

Which should I get — the tank or the bag?
Both run the same patent-pending metering sleeve valve and the same air assist system, so the blasting feels identical. The tank is the heavy-duty end of the line: more capacity per fill, a rigid full-drain cone, a sealed lid, and a build meant to live outdoors and get used hard for years. If you’re running full shells and frames or you want a permanent station on your rig, this is the one.

Do I need to bolt it down?
No. Loaded, it isn’t going anywhere. Bolt it to a trailer or cart if you want the whole rig to travel as one unit.

Can I leave media loaded in it?
Yes — that’s what the vented lid is for. Keep it dry and it’s ready to go next time.

What media should I run?
Use coarse media such as Black Diamond or glass beads for paint and rust. Use softer media such as soda or walnut shell for wood and more delicate surfaces. Keep every media type dry and sift it before loading.

Can I use it on concrete, brick, or wood?
Yes. Match the pressure and media to the surface. Use lower pressure and milder media for wood and delicate surfaces, keep the nozzle moving, and test an inconspicuous area first.

Can I use it on boats?
Yes, with care. Start with reduced pressure and a milder abrasive, keep the nozzle moving, and test an inconspicuous area first—especially on fiberglass.

How long do the ceramic nozzles last?
Ceramic nozzles are wear items, and service life depends on abrasive type, grit, PSI, and usage. Inspect them regularly and keep replacements available for larger projects.

Does it come with the stand?
Yes. Tank, stand, and Ceramic Series ship together as one complete system.

Fill it once. Finish the job.

30-day money-back guarantee. Real support for setup, media, and pressure-washer questions. Replacement ceramic nozzles always in stock.

Complete system: Ceramic Series + Inductor Tank + Stand — controlled, high-capacity gravity-fed wet blasting in one package.

Add-ons: Sand filter / sifter · Rust converter–inhibitor · AP1 conversion coating · Replacement ceramic nozzles · Carbide 600 upgrade

Included free with your kit

  • FREEExtra ceramic nozzle
  • FREESafety glasses
  • FREEQuick-start video guide
  • Fits any pressure washer
  • Free US shipping
  • 30-day guarantee
View full details

Four parts. Zero guesswork.

Tap a dot to see what each part of the Carbide 600 + Inductor Tank rig does.

Four parts. Zero guesswork.

Part 1

Pressure washer connection

Threads onto the pressure washer you already own. No compressor, no extra power.

Part 2

Inductor tank · 250 lb

Holds up to 250 lb of dry media. Fill once and blast until the job is done.

Part 3

Carbide nozzle · 600 hr

Carbide 600 nozzle rated for around 600 hours of blasting before it needs replacing.

Part 4

Media line + control valve

Dial the media flow up or down. Dry media feeds evenly, so the line doesn't clog.

  1. Threads onto the pressure washer you already own. No compressor, no extra power.

  2. Holds up to 250 lb of dry media. Fill once and blast until the job is done.

  3. Carbide 600 nozzle rated for around 600 hours of blasting before it needs replacing.

  4. Dial the media flow up or down. Dry media feeds evenly, so the line doesn't clog.

Watch it strip steel

Carbide 600 and the inductor tank, running on everyday pressure washers.

Carbide 600
Rust → bare metal

Caprice frame rail · 0:13

1 / 20

Three steps to bare metal

No compressor. No dust cloud. Just the pressure washer you already own.

  1. SBK step 1

    Connect

    Screw the nozzle onto your pressure washer wand and drop the feed line in dry, sifted media.

  2. SBK step 2

    Water on, then media

    Start the water first, then open the media. Blast. Media off first, water off last.

  3. SBK step 3

    Protect the steel

    Bare metal flash-rusts in hours. Rust Inhibitor in the water, then AP1 coating.

One shell. One afternoon. Here's the whole job.

Carbide 600 on the inductor tank. Every panel down to bare steel, with real numbers from the shop floor.

After
Before
BeforeAfter
  • 4–6 hrs Blast time
  • 15 bags Media used
  • ~$350 Media cost
  • 5 min Downtime

6-hour job. 5 minutes of downtime.

Real jobs. Real people.

Owners blasting frames, wheels and trucks at home. Their words, their photos.

4.8

From verified buyers

  • Verified buyers only
  • Their own photos and clips
  • 30-day money-back guarantee
  • Customer photo: gravity-fed SBK rig under a lifted truck
    Verified buyer

    Big difference. Smooth, steady sand flow

    I bought the gravity feed after trying the regular pickup hose. Big difference. Turn the pressure washer on, get vacuum going, then turn the valve open. I wasn't stopping every couple minutes screwing around with the sand. Just kept feeding. Great job!

    GilbertoUnder a lifted truck, gravity feed

    BoughtCarbide 600 Pro — Gravity-Fed Bag System
  • Customer photo: SBK gravity-fed kit unboxed
    Verified buyer

    Feels like an actual industrial tool

    Just opened it today, and the machining is impressive. I've gone through plenty of ceramic nozzles over the years, and this feels like a real industrial tool. Everything threads together perfectly, and it has some weight to it. Looking forward to using it on my trailer project this weekend.

    Rick YoungTrailer project

    BoughtCarbide 600 Pro — Gravity-Fed Bag System
  • 7 minRim to bare metal1964 F-350 wheel

    It made a believer out of me

    It made a believer out of me. I did a rim off a 1964 F-350 that had never been cleaned. 7 minutes and it was down to metal.

    Tommy G.1964 F-350 wheel

  • < $300All in: washer, kit and media1970 GM A-body frame

    Ran the whole frame on sawhorses

    I blasted my own 1970 GM A-body frame on a pair of sawhorses in my back yard. No harmful dust to breathe, no mess to clean up. My frame came out like new. Best tool I've ever owned!

    Scott W.1970 GM A-body frame

  • No warpingCleaner than dry blasting, no dust cloudPickup rear end
    Verified buyer

    Way cleaner than dry blasting

    Honestly works great. I've dry blasted before and this is way cleaner. I didn't have any issues warping the metal, just keep moving. You will get some flash rust on bare steel. I just dried it off and treated the metal right after. I put a tarp under what I'm working on and most of it just falls right there.

    AntoniePickup rear end

  • 3100 PSIBlack Diamond media from Tractor SupplyBlack Diamond media

    Works great with a 3100 PSI washer

    Works great!! Before and after. 3100 psi pressure washer and Black Diamond media from Tractor Supply.

    Jay EvansBlack Diamond media

  • Owner video · 0:20

    Turns your pressure washer into a blaster

    If you have parts that you need sandblasted and don't want to buy a big sandblaster because they're expensive: this will make your pressure washer into a sandblaster. All you need is a pressure washer and a bucket of sand.

    Owner videoParts at home, no blast cabinet

  • Owner video · 0:11

    First time ever sandblasting

    One thing that I never have done, not a single time in my life, is sandblasting. I know the benefits of it. It can take rust off a metal like nothing else can do.

    First-timerRusty metal, first try

Join the community

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2,400+ followers

  • Jay Evans

    29 weeks ago

    Works great !! Before and after.. 3100psi pressure washer and Black Diamond media from Tractor Supply

    fb post before after
  • Shane Larson

    2 weeks ago

    I am definitely happy with the results from blasting my 78' Ford frame.

    fb post ford frame
  • Rick Young

    23 weeks ago

    Bought one 8 months ago and finally tested it on a oil pan with a bag of play sand from home depot

    I set the sand bucket 3’ above the work peace and it sucked up sand like it was in a hotdog eating contest. I then warmed the pan with propane to remove any moisture and primed it all in one step. Very pleased It worked well.

    fb post oil pan
    5
  • Gilberto Lupian

    1 year ago

    I completely retract my previous statement that this company is fake. Not only is this product as real as it gets. When I had doubts about a shipping mistake that happened. A real person reached out to answer my concerns and ultimately fixed any issues. They were genuine in their apology and very humble in their approach.

  • Anthony Megown

    21 weeks ago

    This might save me thousands of dollars in my classic car restoration. Honestly I'll give this a shot.

  • Derel Bertrand

    4 days ago

    Heres a real review.
    I have the 3000psi kit and the 5000psi kit

    I bought a metal trashcan.
    I placed a window screen mesh on top to screen the rock from the play sand.
    ****VERY IMPORTANT STEP****
    this prevents frustration with clogged tips.

    Keep the sand feed hose feeding on top while blasting. Prevents water from getting in the line when you stop spraying.
    Does it work 100%

    After you spray it will leave a gold oxidation.

    To remove this before prepwork you will need to use Ospho or Chemprime. A phosphoric acid which will help etch the metal for the Direct to metal (DTM) primer to positively bond.

    I love this thing.
    Yall should send me a new kit as my nozzles just about had it... i pur it through the test with my 1972 Cutlass

  • Tommy Greene

    22 weeks ago

    I have one you better be careful all your friends will want to borrow or bring stuff to you .....it mad a believer out of me I did a rim off a 1964 f350 never cleaned. 7 minutes it was down to metal

  • Cecelia Meinholdt

    24 weeks ago

    Works great! Used sifted play sand and it stripped the paint and rust right off!

    46
  • Scott Stewart

    22 weeks ago

    I just finished a 1969 Chevelle door jams doors so forth. Messy but effective.....start the body this week. I changed the sand feed line to a larger size because it kept stopping up with wet sans close to the nosel. Small pebbles were and issue as well. Use as fine sand as you can find. Still had to sift it .The larger sand feed line made a world of difference.

    3
  • Ben Mowery

    31 weeks ago

    I have used a couple different variants of this. It takes a decent size pressure washer and water supply to run. Also goes through media pretty quickly. That being said it generally leaves a decent finish, also you will need to make sure you have a plan to prevent flash rust after you’re finished.

    11
  • Scott White

    31 weeks ago

    I first learned about this, from watching YouTube videos about pressure washing with a sandblast attachment, and I spent less than $300 for the pressure washer and this sandblast attachment, bought a 40lb bag of media for less than $10, and a tarp to collect & reuse the media.

    I blasted my own 1970 GM A-body frame on a pair of plastic sawhorses, on a car trailer, in my back yard, and there was no (harmful) dust to breathe, and no mess or cleanup to worry about.

    My frame came out like new, I primered & painted it with rattle cans, as a driver vehicle!

    Best tool I’ve ever owned!

    18
  • Julian Harris

    9 weeks ago

    Works really good used it today was surprise how it came out

    8
  • Darrell Lemaster

    32 weeks ago

    I purchased one and it works excellent without wasting sand. Although I wished I'd ordered a wet suit with it.

    7
  • Scott Barr

    25 weeks ago

    These work great. Only thing I recommend is to filter the cheap sand through a screen to rid it of chunks that plug the suction tube.

    21
  • BrettAllison Lewis

    12 weeks ago

    This WORKS!!!! I ordered mine and i was amazed at how well it worked without the dust storm and use of a large air compressor.

    91
  • Robert SAlain Levy

    21 weeks ago

    I feed sand to this unit using a small pressure feed pot. Works much more efficient as the sand is forced into the hose with air pressure. The suction hose does not plug up! Still dustless blasting!!! Great combination for me!

    33

Owner reviews

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Asked on every call. Answered here.

Straight answers to what everyone wants to know before their first blast.

Question 01

Which pressure washer do I need?

The one you already have, gas or electric. Flow (GPM) matters as much as pressure: a washer with good flow often blasts better than a higher-PSI one with weak flow.

  • Sweet spot: 2,500–3,000 PSI for regular blasting, 3,000+ PSI with good GPM for heavy rust.
  • Ceramic Series: built for washers up to about 5,000 PSI.
  • Carbide 600: tungsten carbide nozzle rated to 600 bar, for the biggest machines and longest jobs.

Question 02

Which media should I use?

Dry, coarse media only.

  • Black Diamonds: aggressive and fast. Heavy rust, thick paint, frames, trailers.
  • Crushed Glass: more control and a smoother finish. Lighter rust and panels.

Never use play sand. It's too fine, holds moisture and is the fastest way to clog the line.

Question 03

How long does the nozzle last?

Ceramic nozzles are wear parts. How long they last depends on your media and pressure, which is why the Ceramic Series ships with 2 spares. The Carbide 600 nozzle is solid tungsten carbide and lasts many times longer, so it's the one for full shells, frames and repeat jobs.

Signs it's time for a new nozzle: the pattern gets wider, cutting slows down and you burn through more media.

Question 04

What aftercare do I need? (Rust inhibitor)

Bare metal flash-rusts within hours once it's wet. Two steps stop it:

  1. Add Rust Inhibitor to your blast water at 1 oz per gallon, so the surface stays clean while you work.
  2. Once it's dry, apply AP1 Conversion Coating to lock the metal down before primer.

Question 05

How do I avoid clogs?

  • Starting: water on first, then open the media.
  • Stopping: media off first, then water off.
  • Use dry, sifted media. Damp clumps and pebbles cause almost every clog.

The gravity-fed bag and tank systems feed media steadily, so they don't clog the way a suction bucket can.

01Which pressure washer do I need?

The one you already have, gas or electric. Flow (GPM) matters as much as pressure: a washer with good flow often blasts better than a higher-PSI one with weak flow.

  • Sweet spot: 2,500–3,000 PSI for regular blasting, 3,000+ PSI with good GPM for heavy rust.
  • Ceramic Series: built for washers up to about 5,000 PSI.
  • Carbide 600: tungsten carbide nozzle rated to 600 bar, for the biggest machines and longest jobs.
02Which media should I use?

Dry, coarse media only.

  • Black Diamonds: aggressive and fast. Heavy rust, thick paint, frames, trailers.
  • Crushed Glass: more control and a smoother finish. Lighter rust and panels.

Never use play sand. It's too fine, holds moisture and is the fastest way to clog the line.

03How long does the nozzle last?

Ceramic nozzles are wear parts. How long they last depends on your media and pressure, which is why the Ceramic Series ships with 2 spares. The Carbide 600 nozzle is solid tungsten carbide and lasts many times longer, so it's the one for full shells, frames and repeat jobs.

Signs it's time for a new nozzle: the pattern gets wider, cutting slows down and you burn through more media.

04What aftercare do I need? (Rust inhibitor)

Bare metal flash-rusts within hours once it's wet. Two steps stop it:

  1. Add Rust Inhibitor to your blast water at 1 oz per gallon, so the surface stays clean while you work.
  2. Once it's dry, apply AP1 Conversion Coating to lock the metal down before primer.
05How do I avoid clogs?
  • Starting: water on first, then open the media.
  • Stopping: media off first, then water off.
  • Use dry, sifted media. Damp clumps and pebbles cause almost every clog.

The gravity-fed bag and tank systems feed media steadily, so they don't clog the way a suction bucket can.

Not sure which setup? Call us.

Tell us your pressure washer and your project. We'll tell you exactly which setup and media to get, and what you don't need.

Lines openMon–Fri · 9am–6pm EST

Questions? Call us

(819) 410-4210 Compare the systems