Gravity-Fed System — Inductor Tank + Stand
Gravity-Fed System — Inductor Tank + Stand
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Load 250 lbs. Blast Until the Job’s Done.
The heavy-duty end of the gravity-fed delivery system — a rigid full-drain cone tank on a purpose-built stand, built for full frames, full shells, and the jobs you get paid for.
If you’re pricing out a pressure pot just to get more run time out of your rig — stop.
The Inductor Tank + Stand runs the same patent-pending metering sleeve valve and air assist system that made the gravity-fed delivery system work, scaled up and built solid. A rigid roto-molded cone tank sitting on a dedicated steel stand, holding up to 250 lbs of media in a single fill.
Pour it in. Dial it in. Work.
Up to 250 lbs per fill · Rigid full-drain cone · Dedicated heavy-duty stand · Sealed vented lid · Fits Ceramic Series and Carbide 600 · No compressor required · Engineered in the USA
WHY THE TANK
✓ Up to 250 lbs in one fill. Fifteen gallons of dry media, depending on what you’re running. That’s a full side of a car, or a complete frame, without walking back to the shop. On the BMW 2002 shell, the whole job ran fifteen 90 lb bags — this is how you feed a job that size without your day turning into refills.
✓ Rigid. Nothing flexes, nothing sags, nothing shifts. Roto-molded polyethylene, one solid piece, no seams to split. Load it to the top and the geometry doesn’t change — the tank holds its shape and the valve holds its position from the first pound to the last. Set your flow once and it stays where you set it.
✓ Full-drain 54° cone — it actually empties. This is the same cone design farms use to mix and dump chemical in the field, engineered so nothing settles in a corner and nothing bridges. Media keeps falling straight down into the metering sleeve valve until the tank is genuinely empty. You blast what you paid for instead of leaving a wedge of it stuck in the bottom.
✓ Solid on the ground. The tank drops into a dedicated stand built 4” taller than standard specifically to clear the full-drain cone — so the valve sits at working height and the media hose runs straight out with nothing in its way. A 20” × 20” footprint and a loaded tank sitting low and centered. Shop floor, gravel, dirt, grass. Set it down and it stays put.
✓ Built for the long haul. Polyethylene doesn’t rust, doesn’t rot, and doesn’t care about weather. UV-inhibited for life outdoors. This is equipment built to sit in a yard, get loaded and unloaded a hundred times, and still be the same tank in five years.
✓ Sealed vented lid — 12” threaded. Load it and leave it. Rain, dust, and shop debris stay out, and your media stays dry. Wet media is the number one cause of a slow feed, and a sealed lid is how you never deal with it.
✓ See your level without stopping. Translucent tank with gallon markings molded in. Glance over mid-job and know exactly what you’ve got left, so you top off on your terms instead of finding out at the worst possible moment.
✓ Doesn’t clog. Media falls straight down through the patent-pending metering sleeve valve into the air assist system. No pickup tube to jam. Nothing to shake.
✓ Make it part of the rig. Bolt it to a trailer, a cart, or a shop corner and it becomes a permanent blasting station — a fixed piece of your setup instead of something you assemble at the start of every job.
✓ Feeds every nozzle we make. Ceramic Series and Carbide 600, fully interchangeable, quick swap. Nozzle sold separately.
THE MECHANISM
Your pressure washer does the work. No compressor, no pressure pot, no cabinet, no dust containment plan.
The patent-pending metering sleeve valve sits at the bottom of the cone. Quarter turn to open — it locks in and holds. Below it, the air assist system mixes air into the media before it ever reaches the nozzle. That’s why the stream comes out continuous instead of surging.
Feeds abrasive media downward naturally — like an hourglass — so your washer only needs a little pull to maintain a perfect, steady feed.
No sputtering, no clogs, no shaking a bucket.
6-hour job. 5 minutes of downtime.
Full 1972 BMW 2002 shell — roof to rockers, heavy Bondo on a door and two quarter panels. Total downtime across the entire day was five minutes, and that was one fitting change. No clogs. No flow interruptions.
BUILT FOR BIG JOBS
- Full car shells and full frames — measured in hours, not minutes
- Farm and heavy equipment — implements, decks, loaders, gates, tanks
- Trailers, tube frames, dune buggies, truck beds
- Anyone blasting for money — uninterrupted run time is margin
- Shop rigs and trailer builds — a permanent station, not a setup you rebuild every time
- Concrete, graffiti, large metal panels, marine work
DIALING IT IN — WHAT “RIGHT” LOOKS LIKE
Have a test spot ready. Scrap panel, or just the concrete.
Watch the media hose. If you’ve ever seen sand run through the narrow point of an hourglass — smooth, continuous, no surging — that’s what you want to see. On a sunny day you can see it right through the line.
At the nozzle, the stream should still look like water, with the media carried inside it. Judge the rest by feel: the ricochet coming back should be a light ping of fine grains, barely felt.
Too much media and it bounces back like mini ping-pong balls. Not enough and you’re just spraying water. Sit just under “too much.”
Hose moving like a worm? Flow surging? Too much sand, not enough air. Back the meter off one full turn.
Dial to what you’re removing. Light paint needs far less media than heavy Bondo. Don’t waste sand.
RUN IT LIKE A PRO
Startup: Water first, always. Trigger pulled and water flowing before the valve opens.
Shutdown: Close the meter first, let the hose evacuate, then stop. Reopen the meter to restart.
Two seconds of discipline. It’s what keeps the next pull clean instead of clogged.
HOW IT RUNS
- Set the stand on level ground and drop the tank in.
- Pour your dry media straight in through the 12” opening — no funnel, dump it from the bag.
- Connect the reinforced media hose to your nozzle assembly.
- Trigger and water first.
- Quarter turn on the sleeve valve — dial it in on your test spot.
- Blast until the job’s done.
SPECS
| Capacity | 15 gallons — up to 250 lbs of media, depending on media type |
| Tank | Roto-molded polyethylene, one-piece, translucent with gallon markings |
| Cone | 54° full-drain |
| Tank dimensions | 19” dia. × 27” H |
| Stand dimensions | 20” × 20” × 33” H |
| Stand height | 4” taller than standard, for full-drain cone clearance |
| Lid | 12” threaded vented lid |
| Metering | Patent-pending metering sleeve valve |
| Air | Air assist system |
| Nozzle compatibility | Ceramic Series and Carbide 600 — fully interchangeable |
| Pressure washer | Electric and gas |
| Compressor required | None |
| Media | Crushed glass, garnet, coal slag (Black Diamond-style), other dry blasting media |
| Outdoor rating | UV-inhibited |
| Engineering | Designed and engineered in the USA |
WHAT’S IN THE BOX
- 1× 15-Gallon Full-Drain Inductor Tank
- 1× Dedicated Tank Stand
- 1× Patent-Pending Metering Sleeve Valve Assembly
- 1× Air Assist Inlet Section
- 1× Reinforced Media Hose
- 1× Step-by-Step Setup Guide
Nozzle head sold separately — pairs with the Ceramic Series ($127.98) or the Carbide 600 ($297).
FAQ
How much media does it hold?
Fifteen gallons — up to 250 lbs depending on what you’re running. Denser media weighs more per gallon.
Will it work with my pressure washer?
Electric or gas. GPM matters more than chasing peak PSI — the gravity-fed delivery system gives you control over the media instead of relying on suction to pull it. PSI range pending confirmation.
Which should I get — the tank or the bag?
Both run the same patent-pending metering sleeve valve and the same air assist system, so the blasting feels identical. The tank is the heavy-duty end of the line: more capacity per fill, a rigid full-drain cone, a sealed lid, and a build meant to live outdoors and get used hard for years. If you’re running full shells and frames or you want a permanent station on your rig, this is the one.
Do I need to bolt it down?
No. Loaded, it isn’t going anywhere. Bolt it to a trailer or cart if you want the whole rig to travel as one unit.
Can I leave media loaded in it?
Yes — that’s what the vented lid is for. Keep it dry and it’s ready to go next time.
What media should I run?
Dry media only. Crushed glass, garnet, and coal slag all run well. Sift reclaimed media through a stainless screen before it goes back in the tank.
How long do nozzles last?
Nozzles are wear items and we’d rather tell you up front. Roughly 10 hours at 2,500 PSI, 8 at 3,500, 6 at 4,000+. Aggressive 20 grit takes about another hour off. Keep spares for a big job.
Does it come with the stand?
Yes. Tank and stand ship together.
Fill it once. Finish the job.
30-day money-back guarantee. Real support for setup, media, and pressure washer questions. Replacement nozzles always in stock.
Complete the rig: Carbide 600 ($297) + Inductor Tank + Stand ($349) = $646.
Add-ons: Sand filter / sifter · Rust converter–inhibitor · AP1 conversion coating · Spare nozzles
Gravity-Fed System — Inductor Tank + Stand
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Works great !! Before and after.. 3100psi pressure washer and Black Diamond media from Tractor Supply
I am definitely happy with the results from blasting my 78' Ford frame.
Bought one 8 months ago and finally tested it on a oil pan with a bag of play sand from home depot I set the sand bucket 3’ above the work peace and it sucked up sand like it was in a hotdog eating contest. I then warmed the pan with propane to remove any moisture and primed it all in one step. Very pleased It worked well.
I completely retract my previous statement that this company is fake. Not only is this product as real as it gets. When I had doubts about a shipping mistake that happened. A real person reached out to answer my concerns and ultimately fixed any issues. They were genuine in their apology and very humble in their approach.
This might save me thousands of dollars in my classic car restoration. Honestly I'll give this a shot.
Heres a real review. I have the 3000psi kit and the 5000psi kit I bought a metal trashcan. I placed a window screen mesh on top to screen the rock from the play sand. ****VERY IMPORTANT STEP**** this prevents frustration with clogged tips. Keep the sand feed hose feeding on top while blasting. Prevents water from getting in the line when you stop spraying. Does it work 100% After you spray it will leave a gold oxidation. To remove this before prepwork you will need to use Ospho or Chemprime. A phosphoric acid which will help etch the metal for the Direct to metal (DTM) primer to positively bond. I love this thing. Yall should send me a new kit as my nozzles just about had it... i pur it through the test with my 1972 Cutlass
I have one you better be careful all your friends will want to borrow or bring stuff to you .....it mad a believer out of me I did a rim off a 1964 f350 never cleaned. 7 minutes it was down to metal
Works great! Used sifted play sand and it stripped the paint and rust right off!
I just finished a 1969 Chevelle door jams doors so forth. Messy but effective.....start the body this week. I changed the sand feed line to a larger size because it kept stopping up with wet sans close to the nosel. Small pebbles were and issue as well. Use as fine sand as you can find. Still had to sift it .The larger sand feed line made a world of difference.
I have used a couple different variants of this. It takes a decent size pressure washer and water supply to run. Also goes through media pretty quickly. That being said it generally leaves a decent finish, also you will need to make sure you have a plan to prevent flash rust after you’re finished.
I first learned about this, from watching YouTube videos about pressure washing with a sandblast attachment, and I spent less than $300 for the pressure washer and this sandblast attachment, bought a 40lb bag of media for less than $10, and a tarp to collect & reuse the media. I blasted my own 1970 GM A-body frame on a pair of plastic sawhorses, on a car trailer, in my back yard, and there was no (harmful) dust to breathe, and no mess or cleanup to worry about. My frame came out like new, I primered & painted it with rattle cans, as a driver vehicle! Best tool I’ve ever owned!
Works really good used it today was surprise how it came out
I purchased one and it works excellent without wasting sand. Although I wished I'd ordered a wet suit with it.
These work great. Only thing I recommend is to filter the cheap sand through a screen to rid it of chunks that plug the suction tube.
This WORKS!!!! I ordered mine and i was amazed at how well it worked without the dust storm and use of a large air compressor.
I feed sand to this unit using a small pressure feed pot. Works much more efficient as the sand is forced into the hose with air pressure. The suction hose does not plug up! Still dustless blasting!!! Great combination for me!
Frequently Asked Questions
Everything you need to know about SandBlastKit. Can't find your answer? Contact us directly.
What does SandBlastKit actually do, is it a real water sandblaster or just an attachment?
SandBlastKit converts your existing pressure washer into a wet sandblaster. It attaches directly to your wand and uses suction to draw sand from a bucket, mixing it into the water stream so you can blast away rust, paint, and heavy coatings from metal, wood, and concrete. Most standard pressure washers (1,500–4,000 PSI) are compatible.
No special equipment required
Which bundle do I need for my project?
It depends on the job. The Starter Kit is perfect for small projects and first-time users. The Do It Right Bundle (our most popular) adds PRO Nozzles, a Face Mask, Sand Sifter, and Rust Inhibitor — covering everything for a complete job. For heavy-duty work like full truck frames, trailers, or farm equipment, the Pro Bundle includes a high-pressure gun and cleanup accessories built for repeated, large-scale use. Not sure? Contact us and we'll point you in the right direction.
How do I set up my DIY pressure washer sandblaster correctly to avoid clogging?
Setup order matters: always pull the trigger and get water flowing before placing the suction head into the sand, and when stopping, lift the suction head out first, then release the trigger. Keep the sand hose as upright as possible (around the 12 o'clock position) and raise your sand bucket about 3 feet off the ground for better suction. Using dry, filtered sand is essential, even one damp clump can block the system. This is the single most overlooked step in any pressure washer sandblaster DIY setup.
What type of sand or blasting media should I use?
Use dry, coarse-grade blasting sand — avoid play sand or beach sand as they are too fine, too smooth, or too damp and will clog the system. Different jobs call for different media: coarser grits remove heavy rust and thick coatings, while finer grits are better for lighter prep work or softer surfaces like wood. Always run your sand through the Sand Filter/Sifter before each session to remove rocks, moisture, and debris.
How do I prevent rust from coming back right after blasting?
After blasting, bare metal oxidises fast — sometimes within hours. The fix is simple: add Rust Inhibitor to your water feed line (1 oz per gallon). This protects the surface for up to 72 hours, giving you plenty of time to apply primer or paint. If you're not coating right away, wipe the surface dry, blow air into all seams and joints, and store in a dry environment. The Mini Cordless Turbo Jet Blower is great for clearing moisture from tight spots like bolts and frames.
Can I reuse my blasting sand to save money?
Yes — with the right setup you can recover and reuse 70–80% of your sand. Place the Sandblast Catch Net under your work area to collect spent media. After blasting, rake it out, let it dry in the sun, then run it through the Sand Filter/Sifter again before the next session. Store reclaimed sand in a sealed metal container away from moisture to keep it dry and ready to use.
My blasting feels weak or the sand keeps clogging, what should I do?
The two most common causes are wet sand and incorrect hose angle. Check that your sand is completely dry (sift it first), keep the suction hose upright, and make sure the bucket is raised off the ground. If suction is still poor, adjust the black knob on your washer's pump to regulate flow. For stubborn rust or thicker coatings, upgrading to the High-Pressure Washer Gun significantly boosts PSI and gives you interchangeable tips for more targeted control.
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